The heat was on for about 2 months… the roads were being repaired, shops, showrooms and supermarkets renovated and repainted, street lights fixed and added, flags of more than 50 countries mounted to adorn the masts lining the Boulevard road of Kinshasa. Reason? Cinquantenaire! To commemorate 50 years of independence of Congo. And, I must say, we experienced an important part of history by staying in Kinshasa on the 30th June, 2010.
Democratic Republic of Congo has come a long way since 30th June 1960, when its first Prime Minister Patrice Lumumba was elected. Inspite of playing a radical role in bringing about the independence of the country – the path was complicated and bloody – and being the most revered leader to his countrymen, Lumumba couldn’t enjoy the benefits of his success for more than a month. The reasons are many and plenty, and some accounts imply an international conspiracy... but it’s not my endeavor to explore that part of the water. As an expat staying in a country that has sustained us well for 3 years, I only want to rejoice in its progress and share the happiness around.
Independence Day to an Indian means waking up early, getting ready for school/office/factory to attend the flag-hoisting ceremony, singing the national anthem, and then relaxing the rest of the day. There isn’t much celebration to look forward to. Rather, our Republic Day is when we sit glued to the television sets to witness the saturnalia - the speeches made by our ministers, parades by the various regiments, gallantry awards, tableaus of the different states, display of old & new arms and ammunitions of the forces, and skilful performances by bicycle riders and aircrafts. They are a majestic sight to enjoy every year! The celebrations of 30th June in Kinshasa were more akin to this.
News had it that the President of Congo has invited Presidents of 10 neighboring countries and several African Heads of State and Government to be part of the Independence Day celebrations. Just out of curiosity, I switched to the local television channel around 10:30 am on the day and found them covering the stadium where the ceremony was to take place. It was a massive arrangement, and it was clear that the management had taken pains to organize the venue, Place Victoire, -really well. Thousands of Congolese men and women – I guess people of the various Government departments – had assembled at the venue, seated comfortably. By and by the Presidents of Belgium, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Rwanda… were escorted to their designated seats. The UN Secretary General, Ban-Ki-Moon and Belgium’s Queen, Paola also graced the occasion. As the camera roved, we spotted Ambika Soni, the Information and Broadcasting Minister from the Union Cabinet of India, seated amidst the delegates. Even outside the security ring, thousands of local people had gathered, waiting patiently for the historical moment.
When most of the invitees had assembled, His Excellency President Joseph Kabila Kasongo appeared, driven in his army jeep, preceded by his wife and daughter. The army chief gave various commands, while the President, standing tall in his jeep, proceeded slowly stopping at places to give honor salute the forces. When the President descended, and was escorted to his place in the stadium, the National Anthem was sung by a choir group at the podium. This was followed by the President’s inaugural speech, his greeting the delegates personally, and speeches by Special Representative of the UN Secretary General, Alan Doss, the Pastor and other officials. This continued for 2 hours. Then began the civil and military parades by the various regiments – serving and retired military officials - and UN delegations. Rows of road repair vehicles, vintage cars, and canons were also part of the procession. It was beyond my expectation that so much had been rehearsed and reserved for the special day! By far, the Congolese appear to be lazy and in constant want of discipline… these performances belied any such characteristic. All this while, masses stood in the sun, displaying colourful umbrellas imprinted with “50.”
There have been mixed reactions from the local Congolese towards the festivities. Some feel that the progress of a country should begin with the development of its city, and in this regard the President has kept his word. For others (as per an article by a BBC Kinshasa correspondent), “a layer of paint will not give us bread or home!” To me, it was a nostalgic reminiscence of the Indian Republic Day – the similarity was irrefutable!
Read More...
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Saturday, August 8, 2009
THE MAJESTIC RIVER
Readers, it’s been a while since I updated my blog as I’d been traveling cross-continent and busy visiting family & friends. Now that I’m more settled, I thought of putting down some more experiences from the amazing country of greens…
Discussion on Congo is incomplete without addressing the majestic Congo River. The deepest river in the world by records, the Congo River happens to be the only source of drinking water, means of transportation, source of hydroelectric power, source of recreation, fishing den… in short, the lifeline of the Congolese people. As is true with any coastal country, the lives of the Congolese people revolve around the river. Early morning fishermen sail into the river and bring back to the customers the fresh catch of the day. It is also the chief source of sustenance for their own families. The port, Le Beach Ngobila, sees the routine arrival and departure of heavy consignments through various countries. Besides, in the cover of the night, illegal trafficking of goods is abundant on the heart of the river. These goods range from timber to ivory to diamonds, and in times of emergency (we’ll discuss this later) even cellular phones!
Apart from aiding the commercial sector, Congo River also serves as the chief source of recreation for the residents of the country. Resorts built at places on the river bed profit greatly from providing leisure boating facility to weekend tourists. Some of them also offer amateur fishing facility to the tourists at cheap rates. The equipments are charged for while the fish belongs to the catcher.
One unique attraction of Kinshasa (the capital of DRC) is the broad walk beside the Congo River near the embassy area. In the evenings people flock to this area for fresh air. Many go walking, jogging, and cycling; children play football or skate while couples and old people just sit on the grassy patches and enjoy the sunset across the river on the Brazzaville horizon. Yes, right across the river is the Brazzaville territory, the capital of Republic of Congo. Per Geographical records, Kinshasa and Brazzaville are the two closest capital cities in the world. And at sunset when other natural sounds diminish you could even hear fragments of music floating from the Brazzaville side. Thus muted music in the midst of fading evening sky induces an ethereal moment that elevates the senses, belittles all sorrows and opens the heart for a little prayer to escape! It is a worthwhile experience; more because you can capture it only in your senses not in the camera. Being the embassy area there’s high security and any kind of photography is prohibited.
Read More...
Discussion on Congo is incomplete without addressing the majestic Congo River. The deepest river in the world by records, the Congo River happens to be the only source of drinking water, means of transportation, source of hydroelectric power, source of recreation, fishing den… in short, the lifeline of the Congolese people. As is true with any coastal country, the lives of the Congolese people revolve around the river. Early morning fishermen sail into the river and bring back to the customers the fresh catch of the day. It is also the chief source of sustenance for their own families. The port, Le Beach Ngobila, sees the routine arrival and departure of heavy consignments through various countries. Besides, in the cover of the night, illegal trafficking of goods is abundant on the heart of the river. These goods range from timber to ivory to diamonds, and in times of emergency (we’ll discuss this later) even cellular phones!
Apart from aiding the commercial sector, Congo River also serves as the chief source of recreation for the residents of the country. Resorts built at places on the river bed profit greatly from providing leisure boating facility to weekend tourists. Some of them also offer amateur fishing facility to the tourists at cheap rates. The equipments are charged for while the fish belongs to the catcher.
One unique attraction of Kinshasa (the capital of DRC) is the broad walk beside the Congo River near the embassy area. In the evenings people flock to this area for fresh air. Many go walking, jogging, and cycling; children play football or skate while couples and old people just sit on the grassy patches and enjoy the sunset across the river on the Brazzaville horizon. Yes, right across the river is the Brazzaville territory, the capital of Republic of Congo. Per Geographical records, Kinshasa and Brazzaville are the two closest capital cities in the world. And at sunset when other natural sounds diminish you could even hear fragments of music floating from the Brazzaville side. Thus muted music in the midst of fading evening sky induces an ethereal moment that elevates the senses, belittles all sorrows and opens the heart for a little prayer to escape! It is a worthwhile experience; more because you can capture it only in your senses not in the camera. Being the embassy area there’s high security and any kind of photography is prohibited.
Read More...
Friday, May 22, 2009
PEOPLE & PRACTICE – III
Marriage
While most Christian weddings begin at the church, a Congolese (Christian) wedding ends in one! The social wedding is significant, where the bride and the groom exchange vows and rings in the presence of myriad invitees.
Traditional Congolese weddings are an expensive affair, especially for the groom’s family. The wedding trousseau, jewellery, booking of the venue - marriage hall or restaurant, decoration of the venue, dinner arrangement for the guests are all money consuming. The man pays for most of the things, as also a “bride price,” an amount in cash or kind, that is refundable in case of a divorce later in life.
We’d often find on auspicious evenings a decked-up bride and groom descending from their decorated white car to collect their pre-ordered cake from the patisserie. Sometimes they are followed by a couple of other cars, friends or family, to the party venue. This is a pre-wedding scene. The wedding happens at the venue, amidst loud cheers and merriment, sacred vows by both parties, and sometimes speeches by either’s parents.
Not just the wedding pair, but the invitees too are a sight to behold. Women glittering in gold, diamond and ivory danglers, necklaces, and bracelets, rich hairdos, and short dresses walk the venue ramp, while men with diamond-studded neckties, cuff links, and shoes enjoy laughing boisterously with friends and acquaintances, a drink in hand. Congolese are perhaps the loudest people on earth! We’d discuss this characteristic sometime in a later post.
Congolese men and women are very fond of being photographed. Every time we visited a restaurant we’d find a professional photographer roaming about, asking people to pose. And what better occasion than a wedding! Every couple poses before the photographer, who after doing the honor takes their address and phone number, and in due course home delivers the copies.
While the format of all arranged weddings remains the same, affordability being an issue, factors such as selection of the venue, number of invitees, and lavishness of the feast largely vary for the average Congolese families. After all, this is a country where internal tribal wars have been a daily bearing until only a short while ago, and masses of displaced families still continue to live in temporary settlements all over the country.
Having said so much about the weddings, it is important to indicate that in Congo marriage does not appear to be a sacred institution, viewed by Indian standards. Anytime the man or the wife is free to move out with another person of his/her choice, and start a new life afresh. The society permits (or maybe ignores!) multiple marriages. It even permits men and women to live together, out of marriage, and have children. This also accounts for the number of children in a family, who sometimes share only one common parent.
It inclines you to think that the various persistent problems of Congo – poverty, unemployment, prostitution – can be tackled by tweaking just this aspect of the society – oversight! Otherwise, if marriages are made in heaven, there’d have to be a separate heaven for Congo, functioning round the clock!
Read More...
While most Christian weddings begin at the church, a Congolese (Christian) wedding ends in one! The social wedding is significant, where the bride and the groom exchange vows and rings in the presence of myriad invitees.
Traditional Congolese weddings are an expensive affair, especially for the groom’s family. The wedding trousseau, jewellery, booking of the venue - marriage hall or restaurant, decoration of the venue, dinner arrangement for the guests are all money consuming. The man pays for most of the things, as also a “bride price,” an amount in cash or kind, that is refundable in case of a divorce later in life.
We’d often find on auspicious evenings a decked-up bride and groom descending from their decorated white car to collect their pre-ordered cake from the patisserie. Sometimes they are followed by a couple of other cars, friends or family, to the party venue. This is a pre-wedding scene. The wedding happens at the venue, amidst loud cheers and merriment, sacred vows by both parties, and sometimes speeches by either’s parents.
Not just the wedding pair, but the invitees too are a sight to behold. Women glittering in gold, diamond and ivory danglers, necklaces, and bracelets, rich hairdos, and short dresses walk the venue ramp, while men with diamond-studded neckties, cuff links, and shoes enjoy laughing boisterously with friends and acquaintances, a drink in hand. Congolese are perhaps the loudest people on earth! We’d discuss this characteristic sometime in a later post.
Congolese men and women are very fond of being photographed. Every time we visited a restaurant we’d find a professional photographer roaming about, asking people to pose. And what better occasion than a wedding! Every couple poses before the photographer, who after doing the honor takes their address and phone number, and in due course home delivers the copies.
While the format of all arranged weddings remains the same, affordability being an issue, factors such as selection of the venue, number of invitees, and lavishness of the feast largely vary for the average Congolese families. After all, this is a country where internal tribal wars have been a daily bearing until only a short while ago, and masses of displaced families still continue to live in temporary settlements all over the country.
Having said so much about the weddings, it is important to indicate that in Congo marriage does not appear to be a sacred institution, viewed by Indian standards. Anytime the man or the wife is free to move out with another person of his/her choice, and start a new life afresh. The society permits (or maybe ignores!) multiple marriages. It even permits men and women to live together, out of marriage, and have children. This also accounts for the number of children in a family, who sometimes share only one common parent.
It inclines you to think that the various persistent problems of Congo – poverty, unemployment, prostitution – can be tackled by tweaking just this aspect of the society – oversight! Otherwise, if marriages are made in heaven, there’d have to be a separate heaven for Congo, functioning round the clock!
Read More...
Thursday, May 21, 2009
PEOPLE & PRACTICE - II
Birth and Death Rituals
Congolese houses abound in children – 6, 8, sometimes even more. As per the religious belief (the Christian belief, as Christianity dominates in Congo), propagation is the chief purpose of life. Children are descendents of the God, believed to bring luck and prosperity to a family. Hence, more the better.
As per the social belief – and this seems more convincing – more members in a family means more earning hands. Beyond a certain age, every child in the family is expected to fend for himself, and if possible, help run the family. The Indian system of parents caring for the children until they are capable enough or children caring for their old parents doesn’t hold good. Even old men and women continue to work to earn a living.
One birth, one celebration. Even though there are various Congolese tribes, each with its own customs for birth and death, some common rules apply for all. Apart from the church rituals, a community gathering is organized with every birth in a family. It’s a fete with abundant food, beer, singing, dancing, and exchanging gifts. For the not-so-privileged families, it’s common to borrow money from friends or employers for the cause.
Likewise in death. Funeral (post church ceremonies), also a community affair, is celebrated with equal grandeur. I say “celebrated,” because I’d often find even in the rural funeral ceremonies, most well-dressed guests carrying expensive bouquets, rendering the air fragrant with their perfume. The massive arrangement for the post-burial meal, the loud music emanating from the speakers near the canopied seating arrangement are all so misleading. In some Congolese tribes, grieving for the dead is disapproved. Their funeral ceremony includes music and dancing (something I’ve heard of, not seen). The idea is to evade the destructive powers of death. To ensure that the deceased’ transition into the other world is painless.
Most Congolese tribes believe in life after death - broadly, an African belief. So, it is customary to place the personal belongings of the deceased in the grave.
For those who can afford, a show of the burial procession becomes necessary. A white van carrying the coffin and a picture of the deceased (on one side of the windscreen) leads the way, and the procession of cars with the deceased’ family and friends, follows. The van is fitted with a hooter alarm that is activated to space out the traffic and make way, when necessary.
During the first few months I was surprised to find men and women returning from funerals wearing starchy new clothes. Later, I learned that distributing new clothes among family and relatives is a common practice in some Congolese tribes.
Thus Congolese death rituals are elaborate, sometimes continuing for a week. And, like many other things, death in a family ensures some period of rest and repose for everyone associated with it.
Read More...
Congolese houses abound in children – 6, 8, sometimes even more. As per the religious belief (the Christian belief, as Christianity dominates in Congo), propagation is the chief purpose of life. Children are descendents of the God, believed to bring luck and prosperity to a family. Hence, more the better.
As per the social belief – and this seems more convincing – more members in a family means more earning hands. Beyond a certain age, every child in the family is expected to fend for himself, and if possible, help run the family. The Indian system of parents caring for the children until they are capable enough or children caring for their old parents doesn’t hold good. Even old men and women continue to work to earn a living.
One birth, one celebration. Even though there are various Congolese tribes, each with its own customs for birth and death, some common rules apply for all. Apart from the church rituals, a community gathering is organized with every birth in a family. It’s a fete with abundant food, beer, singing, dancing, and exchanging gifts. For the not-so-privileged families, it’s common to borrow money from friends or employers for the cause.
Likewise in death. Funeral (post church ceremonies), also a community affair, is celebrated with equal grandeur. I say “celebrated,” because I’d often find even in the rural funeral ceremonies, most well-dressed guests carrying expensive bouquets, rendering the air fragrant with their perfume. The massive arrangement for the post-burial meal, the loud music emanating from the speakers near the canopied seating arrangement are all so misleading. In some Congolese tribes, grieving for the dead is disapproved. Their funeral ceremony includes music and dancing (something I’ve heard of, not seen). The idea is to evade the destructive powers of death. To ensure that the deceased’ transition into the other world is painless.
Most Congolese tribes believe in life after death - broadly, an African belief. So, it is customary to place the personal belongings of the deceased in the grave.
For those who can afford, a show of the burial procession becomes necessary. A white van carrying the coffin and a picture of the deceased (on one side of the windscreen) leads the way, and the procession of cars with the deceased’ family and friends, follows. The van is fitted with a hooter alarm that is activated to space out the traffic and make way, when necessary.
During the first few months I was surprised to find men and women returning from funerals wearing starchy new clothes. Later, I learned that distributing new clothes among family and relatives is a common practice in some Congolese tribes.
Thus Congolese death rituals are elaborate, sometimes continuing for a week. And, like many other things, death in a family ensures some period of rest and repose for everyone associated with it.
Read More...
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
PEOPLE & PRACTICE - I
Early to Bed and Early to Rise
Nature resides in the minds and bodies of the Congolese. People here get up early, with sunrise, complete their daily household chores, and are off to work by 7:30 a.m. Shops open, schools and offices begin, and business is on full swing by 8:00 a.m. By 12 noon, people are agitated – it’s time for lunch. Most local office-goers and businessmen either carry lunch to their workplace or hang out in front of the office, waiting for vendors carrying long, tough sandwiched bread, waffles, or seasonal fruits in baskets on their heads.
Conversely, the Indian workers and businessmen prefer an elaborate home lunch. Bachelors adhere to the “monthly Tiffin system,” wherein Indian Gujarati ladies supply 4-tier lunch packs to offices and other places of business. A functional canteen within the office is a rarity in this country.
By 4:30/5:00 p.m. the businessmen call it a day, and begin closing shops. Offices continue for another hour or so, and by 6:00 p.m. the only people left in the offices would be the Asians – Indians, Pakistanis, and Chinese! The average Congolese can’t be expected to work beyond his natural working hours; if one has to, he’s found miserably failing the task – the chauffeur gets irritated with every car ahead of him, and drives speedier than necessary; the housemaid lets out noisy yawns and then excuses herself; the office peon confirms a task three times over before not doing it right; and the sentinelle’s (door keeper’s) tilted form jeopardizes not just the chair on which he’s propped, but also the establishment he’s entrusted to safeguard. Such is the sleeping syndrome that grips the city with sunset!
Thus primitive lifestyle doesn’t go well with the Indian community – especially the Delhiites and Mumbaikars – who are prone to late nights for working and partying alike. [I’ve deliberately omitted the Gujarati segment here – the majority in Kinshasa – as they have a way with odds, and can accept depravities without complaint.] Husbands return early from work and wonder what to do… helping the wife in the kitchen would mean an added daily responsibility that’s best avoided. Family outing is restricted to a few malls and departmental stores, which becomes boring after a point. Workaholism doesn’t pay off well either. The risk of working late is high in Congo; it tempts the opportunist locals to shoplift, burgle money at gunpoint, and proceed in turn to convict the worker. The sentinelle, police, lawyers are all local Congolese, so an ètranger has little hope for justice. Needless to say, the only savior in such case is money.
Restaurants, some Lebanese shopping malls and departmental stores continue business till late night, and it’ll be unjust to ignore the workers associated with them. These seem to be a different set of Congolese altogether; even at the end of the day their mood as well as their (the ladies’) makeup remains intact!
Read More...
Nature resides in the minds and bodies of the Congolese. People here get up early, with sunrise, complete their daily household chores, and are off to work by 7:30 a.m. Shops open, schools and offices begin, and business is on full swing by 8:00 a.m. By 12 noon, people are agitated – it’s time for lunch. Most local office-goers and businessmen either carry lunch to their workplace or hang out in front of the office, waiting for vendors carrying long, tough sandwiched bread, waffles, or seasonal fruits in baskets on their heads.
Conversely, the Indian workers and businessmen prefer an elaborate home lunch. Bachelors adhere to the “monthly Tiffin system,” wherein Indian Gujarati ladies supply 4-tier lunch packs to offices and other places of business. A functional canteen within the office is a rarity in this country.
By 4:30/5:00 p.m. the businessmen call it a day, and begin closing shops. Offices continue for another hour or so, and by 6:00 p.m. the only people left in the offices would be the Asians – Indians, Pakistanis, and Chinese! The average Congolese can’t be expected to work beyond his natural working hours; if one has to, he’s found miserably failing the task – the chauffeur gets irritated with every car ahead of him, and drives speedier than necessary; the housemaid lets out noisy yawns and then excuses herself; the office peon confirms a task three times over before not doing it right; and the sentinelle’s (door keeper’s) tilted form jeopardizes not just the chair on which he’s propped, but also the establishment he’s entrusted to safeguard. Such is the sleeping syndrome that grips the city with sunset!
Thus primitive lifestyle doesn’t go well with the Indian community – especially the Delhiites and Mumbaikars – who are prone to late nights for working and partying alike. [I’ve deliberately omitted the Gujarati segment here – the majority in Kinshasa – as they have a way with odds, and can accept depravities without complaint.] Husbands return early from work and wonder what to do… helping the wife in the kitchen would mean an added daily responsibility that’s best avoided. Family outing is restricted to a few malls and departmental stores, which becomes boring after a point. Workaholism doesn’t pay off well either. The risk of working late is high in Congo; it tempts the opportunist locals to shoplift, burgle money at gunpoint, and proceed in turn to convict the worker. The sentinelle, police, lawyers are all local Congolese, so an ètranger has little hope for justice. Needless to say, the only savior in such case is money.
Restaurants, some Lebanese shopping malls and departmental stores continue business till late night, and it’ll be unjust to ignore the workers associated with them. These seem to be a different set of Congolese altogether; even at the end of the day their mood as well as their (the ladies’) makeup remains intact!
Read More...
Monday, April 27, 2009
WILL DO, WHAT’S THE HURRY?
If the hairdo for an ordinary person takes upto 6 hrs to materialize, it can be assumed that both the person who’s doing it and the one on whom it’s being done are not much occupied for the day. Well, theoretically yes!
People here concentrate on one task at a time, and hardly prioritize. Notwithstanding the plight of the patients, the doctors may come some couple hours late to the hospital; the lawyers may take leave in the middle of a proceeding; the government workers may sit on one petty clearance for as long as years; the air conditioner repair man may stop his work halfway, promising to return post lunch, and then vanish for days… and so on. Nobody seems to be in hurry for anything at all. This is probably why the Congolese people are always found happy. We’d see them joking and laughing with friends on the roads, having marathon chat on the mobile, sitting at someone’s house all through the day with a long slice of bread (Baguette) and drinks… and it would to knock us off our composure to see such acts of leisure performed during the peak business hour. More so, as we could never know whom to complain about such worklessness!
Like elsewhere, the system of "bribes" too works in Congo, and at times does hasten a stalled task, but how much the bribe would influence the worker depends completely on his whims. Therefore, at times bribing just seems like extra drain of money sans result!
.
We’d ask the old people (old in terms of their years of stay in Congo) how they managed to live this long, and they’d answer: “...it takes time to get used to such a pace of life, but once you do, you’ll not be able to adjust anywhere else in the world... you are rendered intellectually incapable!”
Read More...
People here concentrate on one task at a time, and hardly prioritize. Notwithstanding the plight of the patients, the doctors may come some couple hours late to the hospital; the lawyers may take leave in the middle of a proceeding; the government workers may sit on one petty clearance for as long as years; the air conditioner repair man may stop his work halfway, promising to return post lunch, and then vanish for days… and so on. Nobody seems to be in hurry for anything at all. This is probably why the Congolese people are always found happy. We’d see them joking and laughing with friends on the roads, having marathon chat on the mobile, sitting at someone’s house all through the day with a long slice of bread (Baguette) and drinks… and it would to knock us off our composure to see such acts of leisure performed during the peak business hour. More so, as we could never know whom to complain about such worklessness!
Like elsewhere, the system of "bribes" too works in Congo, and at times does hasten a stalled task, but how much the bribe would influence the worker depends completely on his whims. Therefore, at times bribing just seems like extra drain of money sans result!
.
We’d ask the old people (old in terms of their years of stay in Congo) how they managed to live this long, and they’d answer: “...it takes time to get used to such a pace of life, but once you do, you’ll not be able to adjust anywhere else in the world... you are rendered intellectually incapable!”
Read More...
Saturday, April 25, 2009
HAIR TODAY, GONE TOMORROW
No discussion on clothing in Congo is complete without mentioning their hairdos. Elaborate and diligent as they are, it is difficult to escape their colors. Very often the ladies color their hairs to match their outfits. So you can imagine… all colored hairs adorn the Congolese heads – red, yellow, purple, gold… you name it!
The fact is, however, most of these hairs are artificial – wigs, and available at very affordable prices in the local markets. Heat being the prime factor, most Congolese (men and women) have crisp, curly hairs that grow only a couple of inches. The artificial hairs are styled, dyed and then grafted or woven with a needle through the original hair. This is a cumbersome and painful process and takes 2 – 5 hrs., depending on the length and volume of the wig. Naturally, the beauty salons charge a fortune for one such weaving session. The local Mamas however happily do it at a much lesser price.
Some people prefer wigs to grafted hair as they offer more flexibility. One incident is worth mentioning here. I had this middle-aged lady as my household help, who wore her black hair in innumerable shoulder-length plaits, right from the time she joined. One fine morning I went to answer my doorbell and was surprised to find a familiar-looking woman with an elaborate auburn bun on her head. Presuming that my Mama were unwell and had sent someone to substitute for the day, I began asking her what the matter was. She seemed more confused than me, hearing my questions, and it took her a while to convince me that she was the one who had been working in my house for the past 2 months. I only believed her when she removed her wig to show me her original hair!
Later on of course I got used to finding my Mama looking different at different times of the day (especially before leaving), once every month, and after every long weekend.
The fact is, however, most of these hairs are artificial – wigs, and available at very affordable prices in the local markets. Heat being the prime factor, most Congolese (men and women) have crisp, curly hairs that grow only a couple of inches. The artificial hairs are styled, dyed and then grafted or woven with a needle through the original hair. This is a cumbersome and painful process and takes 2 – 5 hrs., depending on the length and volume of the wig. Naturally, the beauty salons charge a fortune for one such weaving session. The local Mamas however happily do it at a much lesser price.Some people prefer wigs to grafted hair as they offer more flexibility. One incident is worth mentioning here. I had this middle-aged lady as my household help, who wore her black hair in innumerable shoulder-length plaits, right from the time she joined. One fine morning I went to answer my doorbell and was surprised to find a familiar-looking woman with an elaborate auburn bun on her head. Presuming that my Mama were unwell and had sent someone to substitute for the day, I began asking her what the matter was. She seemed more confused than me, hearing my questions, and it took her a while to convince me that she was the one who had been working in my house for the past 2 months. I only believed her when she removed her wig to show me her original hair!
Later on of course I got used to finding my Mama looking different at different times of the day (especially before leaving), once every month, and after every long weekend.
Read More...
Monday, April 20, 2009
THE DRESS PARADE
Congo is a women’s world!The Congolese ladies (Mamas as they are called), are so enthusiastic about their outfits and makeup that at most times they seem dressed for the party. The young generation – teenagers to ladies in their early thirties – sports the trendiest (albeit scanty) western outfits with perfectly matching accessories – shoes, purses, glasses, and headgears. It is hard to tell a household help from an office-goer! At first, to an Indian eye, some of these outfits appear unseemly, even scandalous; but with time one gets used to it, and often liking it.
However, the effect of these outfits on the Indian physique is often different from that on the Congolese. Even the average Congolese Mamas are endowed with the most perfect figures one often hunts for in models. In contrast, most Indian women have a tendency towards obesity with age. This accounts for the difference in appearance.
As to every rule there are exceptions, similarly, some Congolese Mamas are so extremely overweight, that it is a sight to witness them walk about the roads/malls! These Mamas would easily weigh some hundred pounds, walk with an elephant gait, and are found doing every job... controlling traffic, driving loaded vans, billing at the mall counter, or just carrying an infant that looks like a toy in their mammoth arms!
Liputa, the national dress of Congo, is a four-piece drape often in bright cotton prints, complete with a headgear. Most middle- to old-aged women prefer Liputa for casual wear over the westerns. It is noteworthy that even the fattest or the oldest woman wearing a Liputa has it perfectly fitted by a tailor.
The Congolese Papas are comparitively less fashionable, and wear everything from informal jeans and T’s to formal suits with ties and boots. Even the unbearable noon sun notwithstanding, I’d find so many men (all ages) so completely dressed that it brought to mind Bollywood song sequences where men often seem overdressed in contrast to their counterparts! The Muslim community, a minority in Congo, can often be identified by their checkered or printed two piece kurta-pyjamas and skull caps.Some imprints on the T-shirts worn by the Congolese men and women are particularly interesting. We'll discuss it in a later post.
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Sunday, April 19, 2009
HAKUNA MATATA...
The first word that any foreigner learns in Congo is perhaps Bon Jour, Good Morning (in French - the national language)! The airport officials, taxi drivers, traffic police, elevator man, household help... everybody and anybody you encounter greets you heartily, just as the eyes meet. Yes, people here are generally courteous, and their greeting doesn't depend on familiarity. This leaves a very good impression on the newcomer, who feels being cared for and compelled to reciprocate. But be not surprised if the very next exchange is around asking for money - this too, anybody!
Before you think I'm exaggerating, here are a few incidents to affirm. Once our house owner came on a routine monthly visit of the house, complimented on the apt maintenance, gave suggestions for change etc. and while leaving asked for some money for transport (conveyance)! Said, she'd left her wallet at home and hadn't any money to go back. Similarly, traffic police may salute you, and ask you to slow your car just to ask for a few hundred Francs (Francs is the local currency here, 50 Francs being the lowest); a passerby may compliment on your new pair of sunglasses and then return to ask for money, the shopping mall guard would help your child on the car and.... so on.
Initially, such behavior enraged us, made us feel disgusted and all that... we'd condemn the whole idea of the initial greeting and amiable behavior. But with time we understood that it's just the way of life - a practice. Those asking for money mean no harm but have got into the habit of doing so, as a convenience. We learned to forgive such behavior and concede, telling ourselves - Hakuna Matata... Don't Worry Be Happy, and also to tactfully refuse when it were possible.
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Before you think I'm exaggerating, here are a few incidents to affirm. Once our house owner came on a routine monthly visit of the house, complimented on the apt maintenance, gave suggestions for change etc. and while leaving asked for some money for transport (conveyance)! Said, she'd left her wallet at home and hadn't any money to go back. Similarly, traffic police may salute you, and ask you to slow your car just to ask for a few hundred Francs (Francs is the local currency here, 50 Francs being the lowest); a passerby may compliment on your new pair of sunglasses and then return to ask for money, the shopping mall guard would help your child on the car and.... so on.
Initially, such behavior enraged us, made us feel disgusted and all that... we'd condemn the whole idea of the initial greeting and amiable behavior. But with time we understood that it's just the way of life - a practice. Those asking for money mean no harm but have got into the habit of doing so, as a convenience. We learned to forgive such behavior and concede, telling ourselves - Hakuna Matata... Don't Worry Be Happy, and also to tactfully refuse when it were possible.
Read More...
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